New to ADV riding and looking for advice on luggage / tank bag / tail bag. As well as other good options. Current upgrades include: 3x3 mod, JD jet kit, Full Barker Exhaust system, Seat Concept seat, Moto Z Tractionators DOT tires and wider pegs. Thanks for any advice given!

Hey all,

Anyone have experience with the new stage 1 hot cams ?

It seems like it has a larger lobe diameter and requires different shims to keep the same valve clearance.

Hey guys, I’ve done some digging on this topic already, but I’m seeing a LOT of different answers and suggestions. I’ve watched videos from Link, motocheez, and elsucioguapo (All Kipa FCR videos). I’ve also dug into the Reddit forum as well as the ThumperTalk one. I messaged Link on Instagram and he said he had nothing but problems with his FCR, so I don’t think I should follow his jetting.  I have a 2021 DRZ400sm California model. It has a full MRD exhaust, I haven’t touched the airbox yet (I will once FCR39 is installed. A lot of guys say to do 3x3, but SoCalSM says remove snorkel only. I’ll try removing the snorkel only and if I don’t like it, I guess I’ll cut a 3x3 in the airbox.), and it still has the stock carb. I haven’t been riding the bike because it runs lean being stock with the full MRD. I already bought all the adapters, an E model petcock, and the o-ring, and some other stuff to make the FCR fit. I live in the Bay Area, the elevation that I ride is typically 100’ to 2200’. The weather I ride in is anywhere from 45-115 degrees F, but it’s typically 60-100 degrees F.     I was planning on running a 170 or 165 main jet, 45 pilot jet, mixture screw 1.5 or 2 turns out, pilot air jet 100, main air jet 200,  needle clip 3. All this information was gathered by multiple places across the internet. If you guys could help me confirm what jets I need, that would be greatly appreciated.

I got a Honda Navi as my first bike last year and I'm at 5k miles currently. I'm looking into upgrading to my second bike where I can learn the clutch and get a feel for more power. My Navi was used as my daily which got me to work and back with a commute of 22 miles daily city streets and no highway. Rode it everyday in Los Angeles weather from all weather conditions in heat, rain, fog, and wind. I am looking into a dual sport since my nephew got me into motorcycles and I want to follow his route. He rides a 2013 Ktm 350 Exc-f with no modifications to the seat height. I'm aware of the height of dual sports and my inseam is 26 inches and I'm 5 foot 7 at 155lbs. He's similar in body shape as me. I ran into the opportunity to either purchase his dad's friends 2004 Drz 400s at 10k miles who said he'd sell it to me for $2,500. He's the second owner and everything is stock with the only things he's upgraded were adding hand guards, skid plate, and a safari tank. The only issue he mentioned was that it might need a fork seal on one side. My second option is purchasing a crf300ls since the seat height is lowered and if I get the drz I'd need to lower the suspension. I keep going back and forth between the two bikes because of their history in the dual sport community and am aware of the pros and cons of both after studying them both. I have sat at the dealership on both a 2023 drzs and sm model but have yet to sit on a crf300l or ls version. I do plan to visit the 04 Drz400s and have my nephew sit on it and ride it and inspect it as if he were to purchase it for himself since I trust his expertise in helping me make a choice. I plan to daily the motorcycle I end up with for commuting which would be a 20 mile radius from work but would love to explore southern California as well such as Big Bear with maybe a once a year trip to something like Los Angeles to San Francisco being the furthest. Any help would be appreciated.

Hello I was wondering where you guys get you decals as it is impossible for me to find a budget friendly option also how do you get more power out of your bikes i worry about the 3x3 mod because I off-road and don’t want extra water.Random question do you guys also fine the drz stiff? Thanks for reading

My speedometer is on, but it won’t read how fast I’m going or count the mileage on the bike. I’m not sure if the cables broke or there’s something else going on with it. I was just wondering if anybody else had the same issue and knew how to fix it. Thank you for the help.

Has anyone diy'ed or gotten aftermarket gauge lights that are not trailtechs? I'm replacing my gauges with a vapor and want to do something custom/3d printed. I think I have the wiring figured out but wanted to sanity check against someone that has already done it.

Wiring:

For water temp and neutral, orange wire is power -> light bulb -> rest of circuit.

For high beam and turn signals, incomming wires are power -> light bulb -> black/white wire is ground.

Hey guys , ive been riding this drz for 4 momths now i love it and all but honestly i look small on it (I am 6’0) 190 pounds , so i want to modify it and get a set of wheels , High seat and a handlebar raiser…

Starting with the wheels , which is better 21’/19’ kke wheels or 21’/18’ , i have no idea which is better but i need some help here .

Offcourse after getting the new wheels on ill probably buy offroad tires so it looks good and i can also take it offroad but in mosr cases ill ride it on road

My wife made a Christmas Miracle happen!

Somehow she was able to get Scrub to ship the new (white) polisport kit as soon as they added their stock to the system, and managed to get it here within a week! She knew I've been waiting on the white to release since announcement of the other 2 colors.

I got the JNS ktm style light for myself. I was worried the front wouldn't look right, but I am SO GLAD it looks the way I was hoping it would!

Plastics were a pretty easy install. The only hiccup is the rear fender needed A LOT of cutting to fit perfectly, but it's got a template moulded into the plastic for that. Same with the top bolt holes.

The rest was perfect fit with minimal fuss. Another tip for anyone wanting the kit: The exhaust side fender where the rubber grommet is on the oe fender (next to the shock canister) don't use the rubber grommet. I split the tab trying to use the grommet then figured out it fits better without the rubber anyway. luckily I was able to melt the tab back together.

Another thing to be aware of: Polisport claims that all hardware is included. This is only true for the front fender as it has an adapter bracket. No biggie, but I was hoping it would come with new airbox lid fasteners at minimum.

Anyway, what do y'all think of the new kit? I think it might just keep me from getting a 2025. 😂

Thoughts?

Hello boys. I have an oil leak, it only leaks after I ride it for some time. Im not quite sure where its coming from, I believe its somewhere above the clutch. How would I go about finding where exactly it is?

Another issue Im having is the front light keeps dying for a split second every like 5 seconds, as if it isnt receiving enough power. And my panel will sometimes restart itself mid ride. Is the battery dying or could it be something else?

Any help is much appreciated, Im clueless 😐

Hello boys. I have an oil leak, it only leaks after I ride it for some time. Im not quite sure where its coming from, I believe its somewhere above the clutch. How would I go about finding where exactly it is?

Another issue Im having is the front light keeps dying for a split second every like 5 seconds, as if it isnt receiving enough power. And my panel will sometimes restart itself mid ride. Is the battery dying or could it be something else?

Any help is much appreciated, Im clueless 😐

Please help! I have a 2009 400S with stock rear brakes. In the midst of learning to do it myself I think I have ruined it myself. I decided to draw all of the fluid from the system from the rear bleeder via syringe so that I could put new fluid in opposite order. My issue now is that I can’t get fluid to move anywhere. I’ve pulled the bleeder out completely and ensured there were no clogs and put it back but still I can’t reverse bleed. I then tried to add fluid to the reservoir and bleed the traditional way again to no avail. I’m not sure what is going on anymore and any help would be appreciated.

Got an MFP 12 bar on the way, already made some skateboard wheel axle sliders, and I just ordered these. Anybody got any experience dumping the bike with these? Did it fuck up the frame? That’s always been my fear with frame sliders

How are ya SM family. Merry Christmas!! 🎄

My gears and clutch have started to feel pretty shit the last couple of weeks, plus, neutral is almost impossible to get into.

However when the bike is off, pull the clutch in and neutral becomes easy as piss to find.

From what I’ve been researching, it is potentially my clutch cable that needs changing.

Anyone got any tips - reputable companies that they can recommend? I’m in AUS not sure if that changes things

Basically I’ve just done hot cams stage 2 in out plus fcr and all the other main mods (Yoshi, dna filter, 3x3). It pulls like crazy up to about 120km/hr then it’s a flat spot in acceleration.

Just needs a bigger main jet and different needle right? Like 3/4 to open throttle.

I had a issue where the speedometer suddenly stopped showing the display. The backlight would come on but there was no numbers or text.

I took the dash apart and I noticed some corrosion in the bottom of the board where two diodes had rusted so bad they lost the connection to the board along with the clock wire (red wire)

It seems water or condensation was getting in through the plastic tube that covers the cables and pooling around the cable joint. If you look at the dash connection there threw wire are wrapped in a loose black plastic tube that is not sealed.

It's probably a good time to say I have zero experience fixing electronics or soldering and always forget to take pictures when doing this stuff.

Googling told me the broken parts were vishay surface mounted diodes. I found them for sale here.

Broken things can't get more broken so I watched a YouTube video and got a electronic repair kit from a friend.

Removing the diodes was easy, but it revealed the little pad the diodes attach to was also rusted and basically fell off when I cleaned it. To fix this I scraped the circuit board back to revel the copper and soldered to that. That is why my solder is long, it needed reach the copper 3mm away.

To attach the clock wire (red wire) I had to burn the plastic back to get to the broken off connection and then solder to that.

To finish I covered the whole thing in hot glue to keep it in place and also sealed the plastic tube covering the wires to prevent water getting in.

It all looks like absolute crap, so much so, I am surprised it actually worked although I am not sure how long it will last. The whole thing cost me $20 to fix and I got to keep my original dash with accurate record of my kilometres.

Anyway, ask questions, make fun of it. Just wanted to share incase it can help someone.

Tags for google, just incase anyone has the same issue.

DRZ400 Speedo not working. DRZ400 not showing anything. DRZ400 backlight but nothing showing up. DRZ400 b Backlight work but nothing else.

Does anybody have advice on removing old case savers? Is my best bet to just rip the old ones off and scrape the silicone away? Cheers.

I picked this 2002 S model up about 2 weeks ago.

The shock seems very soft, when I push on it the spring compresses quite a bit. I'm going to stiffen it up and probably move to just replace/upgrade this winter.

When in riding the bike feels like it wants to lean left way easier, without me really giving any input. Is this something with the old forks or do I have another issue to look for?

Loving it so fa! I'm ready to work on the minor things I have noticed and get out in the Ozarks!

I’ve recently started to learn wheelies on my drz, but I found that if I keep it at balance point for longer than a few seconds, it bogs out and sputters/pops a bit before going back to normal. Has this happened to anyone else? My bike is an 04 with big bore kit, stage2 hotcams, jd jet kit, and 3x3 airbox. Thanks!