I’m looking for a used car to do doordash or commute and I don’t want one I have to fix often. Something durable and good on gas. Cheap to maintain. Something around 6-7k. I’m in va beach.

These are the prices at the dealership but not including the registration fee

2006 Avalon xls 155k $6200 2owners 0 accident

2007 Accord coupe lx 124k $5999 1owner 1minor to moderate damage

2009 Corolla le 124k $6300 2owners 0 accident

2003 civic ex 124k $5927 2 owners 0 accident

2007 Lexus es 350 Fwd 122k $6300 2 owners 0 accident

Which one is the best?

I don’t know much about the car so should I do a ppi before I buy it?

Hi everyone! I was at the dealer all day yesterday looking at a 2024 kia k5 making arrangements and deals on pricing. The actual window sticker on the vehicle was 24,900, and they told me they could get me down to 21,000 out the door. I have my car I was trading in, and they offered me 14,000 for it. In my mind, the 14,000 would go straight towards the 21,000, and obviously include tax, registration, fees, and everything else. We shake on the deal, I show up for the car and start signing everything, and at the end I request to check over the invoice they made and I see that at the top section where it has the pricing info for the used kia, they made the kia the original 30,000 and deducted my 14,000 from that, then tacked on the tax and other fees, getting me to literally 21,000 out the door. This is where I freaked out and tried to understand everything and just couldn’t make sense of it. I’m still so confused if they were trying to horrifically screw me, or if I’m horrific at math. I just can’t see why they would deduct my 14,000 from the original value, 30,000, when the window sticker was 24,000 with the promise of 21,000. Someone make it make sense please

purchase order

Just got my (new to me) family vehicle 5 days ago. I want to protect myself from any major repair bills in the future. I was offered a plan from Route66 with my lender but declined amid horrible reviews online.

Does anyone have any recommendations shopping for a good extended car warranty?

If you currently use one what has been your experience with payout and do you recommend?

In other words is it worth paying a little extra for a used vehicle from a dealership

Hey all, I'm looking to get my first personal vehicle. I'm primarily looking for something that's cheap/easy to work with and won't force me to cough up thousands upon thousands to work on. Preferably something I could work on myself if possible. I'm open to all body styles of vehicles trucks, sedans, SUV's. Age is irrelevant to me as well I'm really just looking for something reliable. I have excellent credit and enough for a down-payment if needed as well if that matters. What do you guys recommend?

If this is not the right place for this question/situation, let me know.

I bought a used 2022 Genesis from an out of state dealership. It has a limited warranty for 2500 miles or 60 days from date of delivery. (Bought on 9/12(?) and delivered 10/2) I’ve driven ~103 miles. She passed MD inspection, and there are some numbers there, but in googling I can’t figure out the comparison into the different ratios or anything. I have all of the paperwork to show with the hope someone can help. The situation - I got her inspected and she passed. There were numbers on the brake lines, that I’m not familiar with. The brakes felt funny and I had to have her serviced, so I took her to the brand dealership. I didn’t mention anything about the brakes. They say the brakes are at the minimum thickness to pass. Reached out to the dealership I bought it from and they sent the inspection form for her. Questions - Is it possible to wear down 3mm in 3 weeks? If the numbers were low when they sold it to me, should they be on the hook for paying/fixing them? What does the limited warranty over in terms of things like this? Am I just stuck paying over 2k for brakes on a car I just bought.

Help me make a decision I am asking because I always hear Mercedes has reliability issues, never heard that about corvettes, I like the s63 better but I'm not married to it, also maintainance cost is a big deal for me.Pros amd cons Also suggest any cars in similar performance range if you can.

Option 1 2016 Mercedes-Benz S-Class 2dr Cpe AMG S 63 4MATIC 76k miles2016 $39,995

Option 2 2017 Chevrolet Corvette Grand Sport 3LT 80k miles $42,299

I am looking for a used luxury car to eventually replace my current car. I currently have a 2011 BMW X3, and while its been an amazing car, and one I’ve loved dearly it is likely nearing the end, since it has 160,000 miles and soon repairs are more than likely gonna start being needed, and maintenance will become too expensive for me to logically keep the car. So, I’m looking for recommendations of luxury end vehicles with a budget of $18,000, and would like to keep mileage under 75,000 (with the exception of known reliable brands like Lexus/toyota, Honda/acura, etc, which I’d be willing to go into the low 6 figure mileage for). I would prefer an SUV, but a mid to large size sedan would work for me too, or even a pickup. I’m not brand picky either; just looking for a nice vehicle with a good amount/level of options, at least decent reliability and at least decent power/performance, since that’s what I’m coming from. Any recommendations?

I just purchased a used car on the 16th and I was given the registration and a signed pink slip. I want to know the process of transferring the title to me at the DMV. IN CALIFORNIA**

Very confuse with these 2 options. Budget is tight else have gone with new city. It's for family of 2. Daily ride of 30-40 km.

Where can I get the most durable used car for $6000 in west coast? Which model? How? How much does it cost to get a mechanic to test the car ?

So recently I got my first car by myself . The last car I had I financed with an ex and the transmission blew within a year. When I went to the car dealership I expressed my main concern was not getting a car with a bad transmission. I test drove three that he recommended. He kept suggesting a 2016 Nissan rogue . I test drove it and I liked it . The price was 12,000 . I know now that Nissan rogue’s transmissions are known for being horrible . I should’ve took time and researched obviously but it was my first big girl purchase and I let my excitement over ride. Plus I happened to not have connection to internet so the cars sales man looked up the car on his phone because I kept expressing how anxious I was because my last transmission blew and put me in a huge financial crisis without a car . He assured me the ratings were good. He also told me I could add a warranty for $30 a month for engine and transmission and that put my mind at ease . I unfortunately trusted it . I had to pay for insurance before going over the financing. I paid $2700 for car insurance due to being a first time driver first time with insurance . After I paid for insurance it was time to do the paper work for the car. They kept only mentioning the $12000 but not the finance charge . They never once went over the finance charge . It was on one paper small .the finance charge was 6,666 if I would’ve known that I would’ve never got the car . Once again I know it was my mistake for not reading , but I was pretty overwhelmed and kept hearing the price $12000. He then asked if I wanted to do transmission and engine insurance I said yes he then told me it would be $500 down and a extra $140 a month. So it wasn’t $30. I couldn’t do it because I didn’t have the extra $500 to put down since I just paid for insurance and the down payment of the car . After I signed the paperwork they informed me just so you know theirs no warranty so after this we’re just friends . I got home overwhelmed and read the paper work over word for word. Then I realized the huge finance charge and automatically felt so dumb and defeated. I’ve had the car about a month and absolutely hate it I can feel the transmission slipping already. A mechanic quoted me 5,000 for a new transmission. Does it seem normal to pay for insurance without them telling you the finance charge? I know that I made a huge mistake and take responsibility fully for not researching, taking my time, and reading the papers he was having me sign. But should make a review about getting played or should I just suck it up and take full responsibility? I get a cars salesman job is to sell cars. And I wouldn’t put his name in the review. I just feel like my credit along with finances being pretty decent I could’ve got a running car with a good transmission and not have to worry about a $5000 repair within a year.

I'm looking to buy a 3 year old used car from dealers (2021/2022 models with listing price around $22k~$23k). How much % can I bargain based on their listing price.

The listing price from dealers are close to $2k more than Kelly Blue Book value (~$20k).

Looking for some datapoints as this is the first time I'm buying a used car.

I found an affordable Santa Fe in amazing shape but the reviews for this engine are bad. Should I stay away?

I went to car dealer that sell every vehicle by Ebay. Not buy it there. You can come to take a look test drive but can't make offer or buy it until ebay date is end got sold to highest bidder then pay them when pick vehicle up.

When I came to take a look this salesman say oh that car is over there. They are unlock you can go over take a look. If you want it then bid it on ebay online. He say there is buyer who on way pick up the minivan that he won by highest bid.

When he showed up he never even been at this dealer before because he is from out of state. While he started engine and check every doors. Everything works except the rear door opener not working.

The buyer say oh want this fix. Salesman say sure he went in garage and bring in toolbox. He opened that back door and trying fix. He spent hour fixing by tear apart of rear doors then assembled it after repaired. He finally paid then drove off. This salesman say he is very sorry keep me waiting because fixing the door.

However what I don't understand is when bid online ebay you take a risk something might not be working. It's your problem not dealer if you bid to win then find out door opener not working.

I mean can't salesman tell him well he is sorry it's as is no warranty and it's buyer problem.

I've bought a 2015 Malibu 77thous thats in pretty good shape, clean vin and carfax. Looking to get more thorough overall check and know its getting new tires, alignment and a new windshield (told this will be a simple switchout, nothing mounted in way). How much of this can an average mechanic handle? I like the mechanic and would like to throw money his way if feasible. If not is there a place that does wheels, alignment and windshields?

I'm looking at this 2010 CRV. Last report on Carfax was at Walmart for a oil change in March of this year with 313k miles on the vehicle. But the odometer reads 133k miles. Big red flag for me. I've never encountered that before. Usually car fax is pretty close to the mileage of the vehicle. Either the engine was replaced at some point without it being reported, or they rolled back the miles.

Also the vehicle was auctioned off at some point so that is a red flag for me too. It is in decent shape and is being sold for 5k. But I think I'll just avoid it.

So my question is, can car fax be wrong?

This is the first time I've encountered this. Could use some advice

If you are a UK buyer, avoid Rivermead Car Center or Berkshire Car Center in Reading, England.

These bastards are running an elaborate fraudulent MOT scam. Used cars are sold with dodgy MOTs under a fake business name. The moment they have your money they close the bank account and open a new one in a different Muslim name. They will then deny the existence of either company.

Avoid at all cost. You will have no legal recourse. Rivermead Car Center. Berkshire Car Center. Scammers in question: Mohammad "Billy" Iqbal Neelum Shaheen

..i have 13-14grand to spend.

I currwntly drive a 02 grand cherokee laredo straight 6. Rust and age are taking hold of her but shes still an awesome jeep and i will ride til its dead...

Now, i want something that is more fuel effiecient, gonna last a while, hoping at leat 6-7 years (i do not do a lot of driving, but i want something more dependable and fuel efficient so i can get out of this town explore and have some fun adventures!) and i would like something that has a nice sounding system.. hoping to find something between 90thousand and 140thousand miles for this price 13gs-14gs -ish.

What do you recommend? Im guessi g honda toyota or mazda.. but what year make and model specifically should i go for that has all three of these qualities???? Thanks in advance everyone, this has been all consuming searching the internet endlessly not knowing what to look for but having an idea of what i want from a vehicle, thats why im coming to you all.

Friend who's pretty knowledgeable about cars looked at my recent MKZ problem and thinks it's probably head gasket. I plan to have it towed Monday after I call a few shops for quotes. There's other issues like tires not holding air due to wheel chrome erosion & handful of annoying but cosmetic stuff. With what little I've told you is this car worth fixing head gaskets? I don't mind the cosmetic.

I bought a 2015 chevy malibu with a damaged key fob. Not unusuable but bought one from ebay anyway. Doesn't work so far. Granted it may be a piece of junk-but maybe didn't come with battery? If so I'm not seeing how to open it.

When looking cars for sale and filter by individual, but when you click on the seller’s name you’ll see a long list of cars for sales.

All I want is to search for cars from real private party.

Hello guys I'm going to buy a Toyota Chr when I run the carfax it says only 1 owner but then I see this.

https://imgur.com/a/grmtj3i

so... what does this means? it is 1 owner or not?

Got a 2015 chevy malibu, 78,000 miles $7000. Got an onsite once over from mobile mechanic, he said I probably got a good deal. Know for sure needs new windshield and front tires/alignment. My question is whats next? Assume even with those fixes should probably have it looked at in garage? Can they take care of tires etc or should I go to different specialists? I'm really new to this-what are the basics you'd do before putting on road?