This will be kept inside, so doesn't need weatherproofing.

This is my current bathroom, in need of complete refurb, change electric shower to combi shower and adding a radiator. All of the quotes in my area (South Wales) have been £8-10K minimum! I can’t afford that amount even on finance, so just wondering if that seems expensive or whether DIY might be a better route. It’s the only bathroom in the house so might complicate things.

Found it during a renovation

Took the bath panel off as the bath had dropped on a new build house. I've then found this gap between the wall and floor.

Could anyone advise what this could be? Has something gone wrong, or is this likely always been there?

Hello all, hope you’ve had a good festive break.

Apologies if this isn’t right and it should have been added to the asbestos mega thread.

So my young son and family cat very kindly started an impromptu wallpaper removal for us over the last few days. We’ve been in this house for about 4 years but never had the resources or time to properly do much decorating, so apart from slapping on some magnolia this wallpaper hasn’t been touched. I was fed up of seeing the tatters they’d pulled off so decided to start removing.

House was built in 1968. This was the only layer of wallpaper on this area and the wall underneath is in pretty good condition. Some areas of the home had clearly been modernised in the 90s (dark wood conservatory, mermaid bathroom, pine kitchen) but others left untouched. I’ve fallen down an ‘asbestos in the wallpaper’ rabbit hole online and am now feeling extremely paranoid and worried. I’d be surprised if this wallpaper has been on since 1968 because it was in absolutely impeccable condition - but perhaps it has? Thoughts anyone?

I’m more roast potato than human at this point so please don’t tell me off, thanks.

I’m trying to fit a ring doorbell and I’m having to drill 4, 6mm holes. I’m using the 18v dewalt drill with a 6mm masonry drill bit.

It’s a super slow and painfully loud process and the drill keeps cutting out when I’m drilling.

Is it even possible to drill through this dense of a brick with my little drill?

I’m based in zone 2 London and am looking to add a skylight to my ground floor pitched roof. I’ve asked around for quotes and seems like no one’s that interested - maybe the job is too small?

He’s one of the 3 I received - they were all within £1-2K of each other.

Does this itemised quote seem reasonable to you? The skylight would be 700x2000mm

Description Amount To have a scaffold erected at the rear of the property to gain safe access to roof. Along with a temporary roof covering due to the nature of the works.

£3,600.00

To remove the existing pitched roof covering and dispose of waste from site.

£800.00

To set up an internal tower scaffold, cut away ceiling joists to create an opening for skylight, reconstruct using timbers, bolts and joists hangers. All work to be carried out in accordance with building regulations.

£4,000.00

To apply breathable felt and treated battens to roof. Build an upstand for new skylight using timber. To re-slate roof using new slates. To install new code 5 lead around upstands, along with all perimeters of roof. All work to be carried out in accordance with the manufactures specification.

£6,000.00

To supply and install new Luxlite LP Rooflight (700mm x 2000mm).

Glass-type - Noise Control (6.8mm Laminate)

Solar - No Solar Control

Tint - No Tint

£3,000.00

To make good on the internal opening with plaster board, plaster and paint. To install new electric blind.

£2,500.00

Subtotal 19,900.00 Total VAT 20% 3,980.00 Total GBP 23,880.00

Merry Christmas all. Let me preface this by saying that I don’t have all the information for the following situation, so there may well be mitigating circumstances that I’m unaware of.

A friend of mine has had to go overseas for an emergency family situation, but immediately beforehand was made aware that a new roof was required (combination of noticing water ingress and it being mentioned by another tradesman) so had to engage a company pretty quickly before heading overseas. The property is a mid terrace house with a dormer loft extension in Surrey.

The quote he obtained was £31,000 all in, but now that he’s overseas the roofers have called and said that the roof is “in a worse state than they thought” and that they have to redo the dormer roof as well, bringing the whole cost to £47,000.

Is there any situation in which a standard mid-terrace property roofing job should be costing close to £50K? It seems outrageously high to me, but I have limited experience in or knowledge of the current state of things, so wanted to check here first.

I’m installing a new tap with an inbuilt filter. It requires this t junction to be installed for one of the 2 water feeds into the filter.

I’m not sure what I need to buy to reduce our 3/8 pipe into this 9/10mm pipe. I already have 3/8 -> 15mm adapters in place.

I believe it’s this https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-brass-compression-adapting-male-coupler-10mm-x-3-8-/58561?ref=SFAppShare but a sanity check would be great.

Evening,

So we had our bathroom re-done and a new unvented cylinder installed. We opted for a dual fuel towel radiator to still heat the towels in the summer.

All worked fine in the summer. Upon putting the heating on this winter, my towel radiator in the bathroom doesn’t get hot with the rest of my central heating, rads round the house.

Usual stuff done, checked the TRV in both directions and left in middle. Doesn’t work. Bled the radiator but being brand new, no air in there. Bled the rest of my radiators and still the same issue.

Towel rad gets hot just fine with the electrical element, so been having to use that.

Wanting to sort it myself before having to ask him back again. Any help appreciated, thanks so much.

Hi, been looking for a plug with higher amp than 13a (had 2 burnt already), ive made myself an extension for a tumble dryer. I cant seem to find anywhere with above 20 amp plug and socket, any idea? Thanks

I’m trying to fit a ring doorbell and I’m having to drill 4, 6mm holes. I’m using the 18v dewalt drill with a 6mm masonry drill bit.

It’s a super slow and painfully loud process and the drill keeps cutting out when I’m drilling.

Is it even possible to drill through this dense of a brick with my little drill?

Replacing a neff fan element and one of the spade connectors came off as I pulled it out. All guides just tell me to make a note of which one it goes back on, but I don’t know which?

Any ideas?

Thanks

Cold house here. Concrete walls and suspended floor that can't be insulated because the space below isn't deep enough to work from and we don't want to rip up the fairly decent laminate. I've been diligently draft proofing everything I can then stumbled upon this gap between the upper kitchen cupboards and the outer wall blowing an absolute gale into the kitchen through this vent! I know not to block external vents but is it ok to block this gap between the cupboard and internal wall? If so, how? I found kitchen roll stuffed in this gap and there's foam stuff filling gaps between the floor and those awkward under sink cupboards also against that external wall.

We recently DIYed some click laminate and are happy with the results. How would you deal with the gap by the radiator pipe, and also the gap along the bottom of the skirting? The boards do move slightly when you walk across them as expected, in case that affects the solution. Thanks!

Hey all,

We managed to get all of the wallpaper off our 1930s walls and quite a few spots sound hollow on this wall when tapping around (mostly by where there are cracks). There was one bit actively loose and moving so we started chipping away at it and it just kept going. We got as far as the photo before getting a little freaked out but can see there’s very little visible that’s still actually stuck to the brickwork underneath.

Is this something we actually need to follow through or can we stick it back down somehow? Trying to avoid the cost of having to take the whole wall down to brick to start again.

We’ve got plasterers coming on the 6th to skim the place, is this something we’re better off just leaving for them to handle, or should we pull everything loose off in advance?

Any and all advice welcome!

Looking to replace this toilet seat / fixing as one is missing which means the seat doesn't stay up and is wobbly when sat on.

Have not had any luck finding it in shops / online. Everything seems to be a top or bottom fixing and not this funky side one.

Any clue as to what this is called / where to find a replacement appreciated.

See the attached photos. A small amount of water leaking from the join in that white pipe. It has no obvious smell to it. What is it called, common cause for leaks and how do I fix? Thank you.

What's the normal procedure here? Replacing the skirting and the way has obviously been plastered with it in situ. Pack it out with a bit of batten?

In the past I've always avoided any plumbing work due to a fear of getting it wrong and flooding my house, but recently I've been more keen to give it a go. It seems like the general consensus is that push fit is fairly reliable and idiot proof for beginners.

I've been looking at both JG speedfit and Hep2o as they seem most popular. Is one more reliable or easier to use than the other when it comes to fittings? I can see that speedfit has the plastic super seal inserts that add a second o-ring, but Hep2o has the benefit(?) of using metal inserts.

Or is push-fit copper the way to go?

I have one of these on a different radiator where the metal has stripped away so that it’s very difficult to turn. Can I just replace this top part? When I search for lockshield valves it seems to only show me results for the whole thing connecting to the radiator and pipes.