ACURA NSX 2017 (S1 CLASS RACE) - 178 644 243

ALPINE A110 2017 (A CLASS DIRT) - 157 911 724

ASTON MARTIN VANTAGE GT12 2016 (S1 CLASS RACE) - 147 972 125

ASTON MARTIN VALHALLA 2019 (S2 CLASS RACE) - 523 315 218 (X CLASS RACE) - 147 208 050

AUDI AVANT RS 12 1995 (B CLASS DIRT) - 165 227 046

BMW M3 1991 (B CLASS DIRT) - 568 412 829

BMW M3 2008 (S1 CLASS RACE) - 584 329 612

BMW 1 SERIES 2011 (A CLASS RACE) - 658 692 183

BMW M4 COUPE 2014 (S1 CLASS RACE) - 100 589 465

BUGATTI DIVO 2019 (S2 CLASS RACE) - 109 486 325

CADILLAC ATS-V 2016 (S1 CLASS RACE) - 686 823 102

CHEVROLET ZL1 1LE 2018 (S1 CLASS RACE) - 220 826 436

CHEVROLET CORVETTE ZR1 2019 (S1 CLASS RACE) - 491 062 512

CHEVROLET STINGRAY CORVETTE 2020 (S1 CLASS RACE) - 126 980 388

DODGE VIPER ACR 2016 (S1 CLASS RACE) - 987 410 938

FERRARI F40 1989 (S2 CLASS RACE) - 109 313 790

FERRARI 488 PISTA 2019 (S1 CLASS RACE) - 301 920 530

FORD MUSTANG RTR SPEC 5 (S1 CLASS RACE) - (rwd) 158 416 465 - (awd) 971 620 747

HONDA CIVIC TYPE R 1997 (A CLASS RACE) - 288 279 999

HONDA CIVIC TYPE R 2018 (S1 CLASS RACE) - 363 966 793

ITALDESIGN ZEROUNO 2018 (S1 CLASS RACE) - 419 663 698

JAGUAR XJR-15 1991 (S1 CLASS RACE) - 124 248 007

LAMBORGHINI HURACAN 2014 (S1 CLASS RACE) - 755 992 798

LAMBORGHINI AVENTADOR SUPERVELOCE 2016 (S1 CLASS RACE) - 951 564 958

LAMBORGHINI SESTO ELEMENTO FE 2011 (S2 CLASS RACE) - 294 544 742 (X CLASS RACE) - 165 694 080

LOTUS EJIVA 2020 (X CLASS RACE) 887 605 009

MAZDA RX7 1997 (S1 CLASS RACE) - (awd) 160 966 511 - (rwd) 136 255 042

MAZDA RX8 R3 2011 (A CLASS RACE) - 273 475 940

MCLAREN 650S COUPE 2015 (S1 CLASS RACE) - 138 148 501

MCLAREN P1 2013 (S2 CLASS RACE) - (RWD) - 109 141 553 - (AWD) - 102 803 839

MCLAREN SENNA 2018 (S2 CLASS RACE) - 164 615 460

MERCEDES GT R 2017 (S1 CLASS RACE) - 470 849 318

MITSUBISHI EVO X 2008 (A CLASS RACE) 142 004 795

MITSUBISHI EVO X 2008 (S1 CLASS RACE) - 528 964 983

NISSAN FAIRLADY Z 1969 (A CLASS DIRT) - 158 073 696

NISSAN SKYLINE R35 2002 (DRAG) - 309 976 975

PAGANI ZONDA 2009 (S1 CLASS RACE) - 108 259 120

PAGANI HUAYRA BC FE 2016 (S2 CLASS RACE) - 402 151 207

PORCHE 911 GT2 RS 2018 (S2 CLASS RACE) - 144 708 284

RADICAL RXC TURBO 2015 (S2 CLASS RACE) - 149 010 019

SALEEN S7 2004 (S1 CLASS RACE - 173 531 140

SALEEN S1 2018 (S1 CLASS RACE) - 667 852 407

SUBARU STI S209 2019 (S1 CLASS RACE) - 390 960 667

TOYOTA SUPRA RZ 1998 (S1 CLASS RACE) - 182 191 260

TOYOTA GR SUPRA 2020 (S1 CLASS RACE) - 145 192 262

--- EDIT: this post blew up far more than I was expecting and I wasn't ready for it lol, it goes without saying that I'm extremely grateful to you all, I intended to reply to everyone but since the post snowballed it's getting tough to keep up so I wanna say some things here,

1 - the original intent behind this was so that I could maybe help one or two people, though ill help everyone I can.

2 - there are no meta cars on this list, no boneshakers or anything like that, there's enough of those out in the wild already, I won't be a part of that problem.

3 - I test all my tunes in rivals and in streetraces to see if they're capable before I share them, that said no tune is a one size fits all and I just hope there's enough variety here to find one you like.

4 - if you have any questions I'm happy to answer, just please be patient, I have a full time job, an ill fiance and twin toddlers to take care of and this thread is almost overwhelming for me.

5 - please be respectful to each other here, i understand the tunes won't help everyone but toxicity doesn't help anyone at all.

6 - it goes without saying that these tunes aren't for everyone, just those who for whatever reason, don't tune or cannot tune their own cars, to save them time and frustrations so they can jump into a car and get playing and be competitive with whatever they're doing.

7- not sure what I've done to warrant all these awards, but I am grateful all the same, to everyone being supportive and everyone still reading, thankyou 😊

--- EDIT 2.0 - I'm away visiting family over Christmas but once I'm back home I'll be adding more cars to the list, namely C and B class, as well as cross country and dirt tunes 🙂

The car leveling system is trash and asinine. Spending too much time grinding garbage laps with a “low car level” that drives like crap. 2hrs later once it’s leveled high enough to unlock a few parts, you still might not have enough car points for the upgrades to make it viable. Pick the wrong car, spend hours leveling it up to find out it’s really not very competitive, complete waste of time and effort. Want to compare how a few cars in a specific division, or Rivals mode, would stack up against each other? Better set aside a whole day to grind away garbage laps to level up those cars just to be able have them roughly balanced. Used to be able to really enjoy upgrading and trying out handfuls of cars at a time. Now it’s a burden to even get through one car a night.

I've been an avid Forza "drifter" since Forza 4 & I've been tuning my own cars ever since. I'm currently top 1% in every drift zone excluding the dirt ones, all with my own tuned cars (none with AWD).

I've seen a surprising amount of people here saying they're having trouble with drift zones or just in need of drift tunes in general, so I thought I'd help my Reddit buddies out. Here's a quick yet thorough guide on tuning your own drift car;

Upgrades

Platform & Handling;

• Brakes = Race
• Springs & Dampers = Race
• Anti-Roll Bars = Race
• Chassis Reinforcement/Roll Cage = Race
• Weight Reduction = Race

Drivetrain:

• Clutch = Race
• Transmission = Race
• Driveline = Race
• Differential = Race

Tires & Rims;

• Tire Compound = Sport
• Front Tire Width = 1 Below Highest
• Rear Tire Width = Highest
• Front & Rear Rim Size = 18s or 19s

Conversions;

• Engine Conversion: Any i6 or V6 with T or TT is ideal (Contrary to popular belief, the turbo lag is actually quite helpful in preventing you from spinning out -- mostly just for people newer to drifting).

• Drivetrain Conversion: RWD ONLY (there is no such thing as drifting with AWD, that's just powersliding. Anyone who "drifts" with AWD gets no respect!)

• Aspiration Conversion: I prefer a single turbo or twin turbos for reasons stated above.

Engine:

• Exhaust = Race -- for the sound. ;)
• Camshafts = Race -- this increases your rev range, giving you more control over you car via throttle.
• Displacement = Race -- makes throttle more responsive/more instant.
• Flywheel = Race -- makes throttle more responsive/more instant & increases
• If the car does not yet have around 600 - 700 lb-ft of torque, keep upgrading until it does. Horsepower is not as important here because torque is what will keep the wheels spinning.

Tuning:

Tire Pressure;

• Front = 28
• Rear = 26

Gearing;

• This is the most tricky part, and what differentiates good tunes from the best tunes. When you are drifting, you do NOT want your tachometer to be bouncing off the redline, this results in uneven power output. When you're on wide-open throttle, you want the revs to be sitting just above the redline.
• Usually what I do is move the final drive until third gear is sitting at around 110 - 130 mph, depending on how much horsepower you have. Once this is done bring the other gears closer to third.

Alignment;

• Front Camber = -3.0
• Rear Camber = -2.0
• Front Toe = 0.0
• Rear Toe = -0.5
• Caster = 6.5

Anti-Roll Bars;

• Front = 10
• Rear = 8

Springs;

• Raise the front springs all the way to max, take that number and divide it by ten. Then take that and multiply it by 4 for the front spring rate & 3 for the rear spring rate.

Damping;

• As long as the rears are lower than the fronts, leave it. If not, move it about 2 whole digits behind the front.

Brakes;

• Braking Force = 50%
• Brake Pressure = 135%

Differential;

• Acceleration = 100%
• Deceleration = 70%

Now this is just a default tune, making perfect tunes takes hours and hours of tweaking on multiple tracks & I couldn't even imagine how long it would take to explain what exactly you should do to each thing in order to perfect a tune. If you are too lazy to do this or are having trouble getting a good tune, feel free to look me up on the storefront. My Gamertag is TE37s. I have about 7 tunes up right now that are pretty dialed, and I will be making more soon. If you have any specific requests for tunes, leave them here for me to consider.

EDIT: I somehow forgot to include engine upgrades. Fixed now.

EDIT2: Holy crap this blew up overnight! I'll be answering questions as much as possible.

EDIT3: I'm very happy with the outcome of this post and all the interest in it, so I've decided to make a complete in-depth tutorial on drift tuning. I will go through each upgrade and tuning aspect and explain exactly what it changes, as well as explain what things you should change, in order of importance, to get the desired effect.

EDIT4: I was not aware that you could not look up someone's storefront without knowing which cars they have tunes for, so here are the ones I have up currently;

• Subaru BRZ
• Nissan 240sx
• Nissan Silvia Spec R
• Nissan Fairlady Z
• Mazda RX-7
• BMW M4 Coupe

In the game, I only get about 180 degrees of rotation, but my wheel is set to 900. What's the issue here? The wheel is a Thrustmaster T248 if that helps.

I want 100% achievements on the new Forza Motorsport and the only achievement I can’t seem to get is the one related to tunes. I am therefore becoming a personal engineer. Comment a car you want a tune for and I’ll spend 1-2 hours making it (I really want the achievement). Hopefully the tune turns out good enough.

EDIT: The comments are coming in faster than I can tune and since I need to level up some of the cars this is going to take a while. Running out of time for the day but will continue to tune the cars during the coming week. Gamertag for all the tunes: ForeztNoize

210+ tunes AND NEW CUSTOM CIRCUITS, NOW IN GOOGLE SPREADSHEET FORMAT  

I am usually making 1-2 new racing tune setups per day to race Marathon or Goliath. Since there are A LOT of cars, you might miss out on some really awesome cars or you might not find a good tune for a car you want. Will also add at least 1 new custom circuit per week, only with at least decent level racing line that helps.

So, why not try my tunes or request a tune for your wanted car and class rating? I will do tune request in order, from first to last.

My gamertag is zalmoxis91

I will list down here the cars I tuned and I will update this daily. If you guys have any suggestions feel free to leave a comment. (I will list all my tunes once I get home from work).

I will add custom circuits made by other people if you post a suggestion of one. I will test it so if I find it enjoyable and it has a decent racing line, I will add it. It also needs at least a screenshot of its layout before I even try it out.

I test the cars on Open Class in Marathon and Goliath races (Titan for offroad), against Highly skilled up to Unbeatable drivatars. For setup, I use a T500RS wheel and all assists off (only ABS On). If I list a tune here it means you can easily beat drivatars. If you can't, then try lower difficulty drivatars until you the race once or twice.

Because the car list is now over 140+ tunes and I added custom circuits, I made a google spreadsheet. There are SHEETS(see bottom of spreadsheet, just like excel) with each tune speciality: Race, S2 offroad, Vintage and Classic, Rally and Offroad, Seasonal Championship and Winter Race tunes.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1o0dbecakErcXBMZhyFfVPiE8UqJ3Y4DU1h37U6g7FRo/edit?usp=sharing

/u/d1rtySi: OK so I found a way to list all the tunes. On "creative hub" from the pause menu go to followed creators. Assuming you've already followed /u/zalmolxis91 then you can select them then select "tunes shared" in the bottom left. That lists all the public tunes. Then you can favourite or straight download them by pressing Y or A. Cheers

So it seems my post here got a lot of traction^hehe & so I've decided to make a full on in-depth guide on drift tuning! But before we get into it, a few things first.

Notes

• I've spent a decent amount of time, over the span of 3 days, typing out & formatting this guide for you guys. So if you guys could help me out by upvoting, so more people will see this, as well as sharing with your friends, I would greatly appreciate you. I would hate to have made all this & end up not helping that many people.

• Also, Dear Mods, for the same reasons stated above, if this post could be stickied, put on the sidebar, or anything that could help this post get some attention, I would endlessly appreciate you.

• I've created a sort of video walkthrough of this guide for those of you who learn better by watching than reading. I've never really made a video like this before so it's not the best, but I hope it helps some of you guys out. :) There's not much information in this video that's not in this guide, so don't feel obligated to watch it. Watch it here.

• I won't be getting into the mechanics of drifting in this guide. If you want help with that, watch this video created by a fellow Redditor (/u/halycon8).

• If you want to add me, my Gamertag is TE37s.  

Disclaimers

1. Being good at drifting is not about having the best tune. I could massively tweak every aspect of a car to make it drift as good as possible, and someone could still do better than me with an almost stock car. Tuning only helps make things easier and accentuate your skills.
2. I am not the best drifter nor do I make the absolute best tunes. I simply feel I am well-versed in the topic and want to spread my knowledge to those who want to get into tuning, but don't know where to start.

Picking A Car

1. Avoid mid or rear engine cars. Mid/rear engine cars have a lot of their weight in the back, this throws off the weight distribution of the car. In a drift car, ideally, you want 50/50 weight distribution, meaning the weight is distributed perfectly across the length of the car. This will result in more control and less harsh transitions.
2. Avoid cars that can not be converted to RWD (rear wheel drive). I am aware drifting is possible with AWD cars, but this is not true drifting. Having power in the front wheels makes it much easier to pull back from angle. If you are just looking to get 3 stars in all drift zones, I suggest downloading an AWD tune from the storefront. This guide is made for those who really want to get into true drifting and want to know every aspect of tuning.
3. Why the '97 BMW M3 Horizon Edition is the best drift car.

Upgrades

Drivetrain;

• Race Clutch. Faster shift times, crucial for transitions or entries where you have to dump a lot of speed and downshift.
• Race Transmission. Faster shift times.
• Race Driveline. Improves throttle response, crucial for getting the revs back up when you're about to get traction.
• Race Differential. This is very important, the race differential gives us the ability to adjust the differential acceleration & deceleration rates in the tuning options. I'll get more into how this affects a car in the tuning section.

Platform & Handling;

• Race Brakes. This is very important, the race brakes give us the ability to adjust braking pressure in the tuning options. I'll get more into how this affects a car in the tuning section.
• Race or Rally Springs & Dampers. This is very important, the race/rally springs & dampers give us the ability to adjust spring rates in the tuning options. Rally springs allow for much softer spring rates (you can lower the car back down in the tuning options). I'll get more into how this affects a car in the tuning section.
• Race Anti-Roll Bars.This is very important, the race anti-roll bars give us the ability to adjust roll bar stiffness in the tuning options. I'll get more into how this affects a car in the tuning section.
• Stock or Race Chassis Reinforcement. Choose stock if you want a softer tune with more body roll. Choose race if you want a stiffer tune with less body roll. This can also help achieve closer to 50/50 weight distribution. I personally always choose race. I'll get more into how this affects a car in the tuning section.
• Sport or Race Weight Reduction. Choose sport if you want a heavier car with more body roll. Choose race if you want a lighter car with less body roll. This can also help achieve closer to 50/50 weight distribution. I personally always choose race. I'll get more into how this affects a car in the tuning section.

Tires & Rims;

• Any Tire Compound. Most avid drifters, never use race compound. It gives a lot grip & it is not allowed in competitions. But in order to compete at the top of the leaderboards in the drift zones, you will probably need race tires. I do not recommend using them if you're not very good at drifting. Contrary to popular belief, grip is very important in drifting! Without grip you will get no speed & you will not be able to keep your car from spinning out. Stock tires will result in a lot of wheelspin, with less grip. Sport will result in less wheelspin, with more grip. Street is between the two. If your build has around 400-500 horsepower, you will want to consider stock or street compound. If your build has 500+ horsepower, you should toy around with both street and sport and see which you like more.
• Tire Width. This involves a lot of preference & differs highly depending on many different aspects of your build. To explain it best, more tire width = more grip. More grip in the front = more steering impact. Too much grip in the front will result in you having a hard time keeping angle because your front tires will keep pulling you back in. Not enough grip in the front will result in you having a hard time pulling back from angle, often causing you to oversteer too much & spin out. Not enough grip in the rear = less speed & more likely to spin out. Too much grip in the rear = difficulty keeping the wheels spinning, often resulting in not being able to get & keep angle as well as straightening out.
• Rim Style. Doesn't really matter what you pick. Try not to pick something too heavy as it may make the wheels hard to spin.
• Rim Size. Best choices here are 18s or 19s. Rims that are too small give you a thicker tire, which have larger and softer sidewalls. Rims that are too big give you skinnier tires, which have smaller and stiffer sidewalls. Large sidewalls means the tire moves side to side a lot during hard turns, this results in more, yet inconsistent, grip because the contact patch is moving all over the place. Thin sidewalls means the tire will move a lot less during hard turns, this results in less, yet more consistent, grip. 18s and 19s are basically the happy medium.

Aero & Appearance;

Mostly for looks, except the Forza ones. Some do decrease weight slightly. The Forza wings give you the ability to adjust aero in the tuning options. I recommend not messing with this, I'll explain why in the tuning section.

• Body Kits. Widebody kits increase the maximum tire width (and they're sexy)! So if you want a wider tire for more grip, install a widebody kit if it's available.

Conversions;

• Engine Conversion. There's a lot of preference involved here. But the biggest differences are in the powerbands. I'll list the engine types below as well as a description of them.

  Engine Type	Description
  Inline 4 (i4)	Very weak in the low RPMs & in general, usually should avoid these.
  Inline 6 (i6)	Fairly linear powerband, slightly weaker in low RPMS, great when paired with a turbo. My personal favorite.
  V6	Fairly linear powerband.
  V8	Very linear powerband, stronger low-end, probably the most consistent power output.
  V10	Very strong low-end, torque begins to fall off after mid-range.
  V12	Very strong low-end, torque begins to fall off after mid-range, while the horsepower sky rockets.
  Rotary	Torque drastically falls off after mid-range. I recommend not using the 2.6L 4 Rotor, it's power output is not strong enough at high RPMs where drifting takes place. Some cars that come with rotaries stock (ex. RX-7) have 2 or 3 rotors, which are fairly good for low-medium power builds if paired with a turbo. Anything above 600hp in a rotary result in drastic torque fall off after mid-range.

• Drivetrain Conversion. Always RWD. Drifting is possible with AWD, but I will not be getting into that because I don't like using AWD to drift as it makes it too easy, & is generally looked down upon by avid drifters.

• Aspiration Conversion. Again, a lot of preference involved here. Biggest differences are the changes in the low and mid-range RPMs. Also, pay attention to the differences between the two superchargers, because most people have no idea what the differences between the two types are.

  Aspiration Type	Description
  Naturally Aspirated	Not much to say here, just the default. I generally avoid this unless I'm using a V8 or higher because the other engines don't have the most ideal powerbands for drifting.
  Single Turbo	With turbos you have turbo lag. This means that power output is low until around 3-4k RPMs where the power output wildly increases. Gives much more mid and high-range power than superchargers. I prefer a single turbo because the sudden burst of power makes it easier to initiate a drift & the high-end power output helps keep the wheels spinning. I prefer this over twin turbos because reaching full boost at around 3-4k, rather than 2.5-3k, helps a little bit more.
  Twin Turbo	Similar to the single turbo except you reach full boost at lower RPMs. Slightly lower power output than a single turbo.
  Positive Displacement/Twin-Scroll Supercharger	This type of supercharger is basically a straight power boost. It does not affect how linear the powerband is at all.
  Centrifugal Supercharger	This type of supercharger is sort of a mix between a positive displacement supercharger and a turbocharger. There is no "lag" with this type, but the power increase is still gradual. For example, if at 3k RPM, this supercharger provided 'x' amount of boost, then at 6k RPM, it would provide x2 amount of boost.

Engine;

• The only things you 100% need are race camshafts & a race flywheel, the camshafts increase your rev limit, giving you more rev range to work with while drifting & the flywheel allows you to increase your revs faster. After that I suggest running race exhaust for the sound (yes it does make an audible difference). I suggest running anywhere from 500 - 750 HP depending on what "track" you're running. Be careful about running race turbos without upgrading everything else first, as this can result in a LOT of turbo lag.

Tuning

I highly suggest you watch this video before going further because I will be referencing it. This video is a drift run of mine @ Double Hairpin that serves as a very good example, in my opinion, of what your drifts should look like.

Tires;

Tire pressure changes the size of the contact patch of the tire, this is the amount of tire touching the ground. More tire pressure = less grip. Less tire pressure = more grip.

• Front Tire Pressure. Front tire pressure controls how effective & snappy your steering is. More front tire pressure = less effective steering. Less front tire pressure = more effective steering. Don't be afraid to raise this very high. In my default tunes, my front tire pressure is 40.
• Rear Tire Pressure. Rear tire pressure controls how easy/hard it is to get the wheels spinning, as well as increasing/decreasing the speed your rear wheels will spin at when at full throttle. Along with gearing, this can help you keep from bouncing off the redline while drifting, which is something you want to avoid. I will get into this more in the gearing section. In my default tunes, my rear tire pressure is 26.

Gearing;

• Tuning gears is the most important & time-consuming part of tuning a drift car. Having perfectly tuned gears allows you to get the wheels spinning at the perfect time & keep them spinning at the speeds you want them to. Consistency in wheel speed when drifting gives you an amount of stability that can not be matched by anything else in the game, & gearing is the biggest factor in achieving that consistent wheel speed. At full throttle you want your revs to be sitting just above the redline. If your revs are bouncing off the redline at full throttle, that means your power output is inconsistent which can result in a twitchy rear end as well as the inability to get & keep angle. If your revs are far from the redline at full throttle, that means your not putting out enough power which can result in straightening out as well as the inability to get & keep angle. As you can see in the video above, throughout my run my throttle was very consistent & the rear of my car wasn't shifting much at all in between transitions. This is ideal.

• You have to find the "Money Gear". This is usually 3rd or 4th gear. Take your car to the drift zone/"track" that you want the gears to be tuned for. I recommend using 3rd gear because it is the middle-most gear so you have other gears to shift into in different situations. Put your car in 3rd gear and drift a few corners. If you notice that your car is redlining (bouncing off of the rev limiter) too quickly which is causing you to lose speed, then tune the final drive 3 clicks towards speed. This will make all of the gears a little bit longer which will make them redline at higher speends. Tune your final drive so that 3rd gear drifts most corners with around 1000rpm's to spare until it redlines.

• Tuning the final drive alone doesn't always solve your problems. If all but one of your gears are perfect, go to that individual gear and tune it independently. Try to avoid going to extremes though as it will throw off your gearing a lot. For example, if you like your 2nd and 4th gear, but your 3rd gear seems like it bogs down (loses rpm's) mid-drift, then go to the 3rd gear & tune it about 3 clicks towards acceleration. Repeat this process until you are happy with the gears.

Alignment;

Camber. Camber is how angled the tops of your tires are towards each other. You always want negative camber in front & rear, never positive. Here's a diagram explaining what camber is.

• Front Camber. Front camber controls how effective your steering is & how much angle you can pull back from. You always want negative camber, never positive. More negative camber = more potential angle and snappier steering. Less negative camber = less potential angle and much more controllable steering. In my default tunes, my front camber is -5.0°.
• Rear Camber. You want this as close to 0 as possible while drifting. I, & most avid drift tuners, use -0.5°, instead of 0°, because the rear tires naturally camber in a little bit when rolling. In my default tunes, my rear camber is -0.5°.

Toe. Toe is how close or far apart the fronts of the tires are from each other. Here's a diagram explaining what toe is.

• Front Toe. Front toe controls how effective your steering is & how much angle you can pull back from. You always want positive toe, never negative. More positive toe = more potential angle and snappier steering. Less positive toe = less potential angle and much more controllable steering. In my default tunes, my front toe is 1.5°.
• Rear Toe. You want this as close to 0 as possible while drifting. I, & most avid drift tuners, use -0.5°, instead of 0°, because the rear tires naturally toe in a little bit when rolling. In my default tunes, my rear toe is -0.5°.

Caster. Caster controls how much negative camber you gain as you turn. More caster = more negative camber gain, which helps the car turn in better, and makes the car more stable. Less caster = less negative camber gain and makes the car more twitchy. Here's a diagram of what caster is.

Anti-Roll Bars;

Anti-roll bars control how fast the car transfers weight side to side. By using the following formula to determine your anti-roll bar, springs, and damping settings, you can simulate 50/50 weight distribution, which is ideal for drifting.

The formula: (A-B)C+B=X

A= The stiffest setting, always 65 if you install Race Anti-Roll Bars. B= The softest setting, always 1 if you install Race Anti-Roll Bars. C= How much weight is on the front/rear of your vehicle. This can be found by going to your garage and scrolling over your car and pressing up on the D-pad. If it says front 52%, that means you have rear 48%.

Front; Take the stiffest setting (65 for roll bars, 20 for damping, springs changes depending on the car) and subtract the softest setting (1 for roll bars, 3 for damping, springs changes depending on the car) from it. Then you take that answer & multiply it by how much weight is on the front of your car. Then you take that answer and add the softest setting. We'll be using 52% in the front for example.

((65-1).52)+1=34.8 -- 34.8 would be the front setting.

Rear; Same process, but C is now the rear weight percentage instead of thr front. If front is 52%, then rear is 48%.

((65-1).48)+1=32.2 -- 32.2 would be the rear setting.

I know it seems like a lot of work, but after a while you will memorize the process. The purpose of this is so that your car is perfectly balanced.

• Front Anti-Roll Bars. You don't always want to keep these perfectly balanced, doing so simply makes for a good default tune. Adjusting your front anti-roll bars affects how responsive your steering is. Softer for less responsive steering & stiffer for more responsive steering. If you find that every time you counter-steer your car jerks forward fast, you might want to try softening your front anti-roll bars. If you find every time you counter-steer, almost nothing happens, you might want to try stiffening your front anti-roll bars. In my default tunes, my front anti-roll bars are determined by the formula above.

• Rear Anti-Roll Bars. You don't always want to keep these perfectly balanced, doing so simply makes for a good default tune. Adjusting your rear anti-roll bars affects how fast your rear end will swing out. For example, if your rear anti-roll bars are super soft, when you throw the car sideways, the rear end will swing out slowly. If your rear anti-roll bars are super stiff, the rear end will swing out faster. If you find that every time you throw the car sideways or get on the throttle hard, your car swings out too fast or you spin out, you might want to try softening your rear anti-roll bars. If you find that every time you throw the car sideways or get on the throttle hard, your car hardly swings out or you straighten out, you might want to try stiffening your rear anti-roll bars. In my default tunes, my rear anti-roll bars are determined by the formula above.

Springs;

Springs control how much of the car's weight can be transferred from side to side. The stiffer your springs, the less weight will transfer to the side of your car while drifting. This is ideal for tighter "tracks" and quicker transitions (when you transfer the weight of your car to the other side in order to change direction). That's how they work, but I actually treat springs exactly how I treat the anti-roll bars, because for drifting, they have the same effect.

• Front Springs. You don't always want to keep these perfectly balanced, doing so simply makes for a good default tune. Adjusting your front springs affects how responsive your steering is. Softer for less responsive steering & stiffer for more responsive steering. If you find that every time you counter-steer your car jerks forward fast, you might want to try softening your front springs. If you find every time you counter-steer, almost nothing happens, you might want to try stiffening your front springs. In my default tunes, my front springs are determined by the formula above.

• Rear Springs. You don't always want to keep these perfectly balanced, doing so simply makes for a good default tune. Adjusting your rear anti-roll bars affects how fast your rear end will swing out. If you find that every time you throw the car sideways or get on the throttle hard, your car swings out too fast or you spin out, you might want to try softening your rear anti-roll bars. If you find that every time you throw the car sideways or get on the throttle hard, your car hardly swings out or you straighten out, you might want to try stiffening your rear anti-roll bars. In my default tunes, my rear springs are determined by the formula above.

Ride Height. Most avid drifters like to have the rear lowered all the way with the front 4 or 5 ticks above that. Having the front a little higher helps the car stay level when slowing down/braking (when more weight transfers to the front). This can help keep you from spinning out. In my default tunes, my rear ride height is as low as possible with the front 4 ticks above that.

Damping;

Rebound Damping. Controls the rate of extension as the suspension rebounds away from the wheels wells.

• Front Rebound Stiffness. Adjusting front rebound stiffness affects how fast your car will spin around when transitioning. Stiffer = slower transitions. Softer = faster transitions. In my default tunes, my front rebound stiffness is determined by the formula above.
• Rear Rebound Stiffness. Adjusting rear rebound stiffness affects how fast your car will spin around when transitioning. Stiffer = faster transitions. Softer = slower transitions. In my default tunes, my rear rebound stiffness is determined by the formula above.

Bump Damping. Controls the rate of compression as the suspension goes up into the wheel wells.

• Front Bump Stiffness. Should always be 50-75% of it's rebound counterpart. Adjusting rear bump stiffness affects how fast your car will spin around when transitioning. Stiffer = slower transitions. Softer = faster transitions. In my default tunes, my front bump stiffness is 50% of my front rebound stiffness.
• Rear Bump Stiffness. Should always be 50-75% of it's rebound counterpart. Adjusting rear bump stiffness affects how fast your car will spin around when transitioning. Stiffer = faster transitions. Softer = slower transitions. In my default tunes, my rear bump stiffness is 50% of my rear rebound stiffness.

Aero;

I never mess with this because I don't see much of a point in it. Aero in this game puts more & more grip in the rear the faster you go. In drifting, you're changing speeds constantly so all aero will do is make your rear grip inconsistent, which is the exact opposite of what we want.

Brakes;

Braking Balance. I suggest using 45% for tandems and 50% for solo runs. Using 45% is better tandems because if you're the follow driver and the lead driver hits the brakes, you have too also. 45% will allow you to brake more without losing angle. This only affects the regular brakes, not the e-brake. In my default tunes, my braking balance is 50%.

Braking Pressure. This controls how hard you have to brake in order to lock the wheels. I personally almost never use the regular brakes when drifting. Most drift tuners like a default of 90 - 120%. Lower braking pressure is better for tandems. This only affects the regular brakes, not the e-brake. In my default tunes, my braking pressure is 135%.

Differential;

Increasing the acceleration rate of the differential in a rear-wheel drive vehicle will tend to make more understeer as you go into a corner, as the wheels lock together and begin to gain traction under acceleration. The more acceleration and deceleration, the more angle you will be able to achieve while drifting. On the other hand, it is much more likely to spin out.

Acceleration. Having this at 100% keeps your wheels locked all the time, this means they're always spinning at the same speed. This results in more angle and also helps keep the car less twitchy. In my default tunes, my differential acceleration is 100%.

Deceleration. This is honestly up to you, I've had it at 0% and 100% on the same tune and liked them both. I recommend setting this at either 0% or 100% and just mess around with it to see what you like. In my default tunes, my differential deceleration is 70%.

Drifting Tips & FAQs

So now you've got your car set up with proper upgrades & a default tune. But what now?

Q: How do I start custom tuning?

A: Tuning a car is much like a science experiment, you want a very controlled environment so that it's easier to identify what's really going on with your car & what you need to change. The things you want to stay consistent throughout your whole tuning process are the following; "track"/drift zone, time of day (going to any beauty spot in solo campaign will reset the time of day), road conditions (wet or dry), & traffic (having a friend to block traffic for you is very helpful).

Q: I keep spinning out, but almost every tuning option can help me with that. Where do I start?

A: Springs > Anti-Roll Bars > Tire Pressure > Alignment > Damping > Differential -- This is the order in which you should change things. A big mistake that a lot of people make is messing with the alignment first in order fix oversteer/understeer. This is not the case, the default alignment settings I provided work perfectly for almost every build.

Q: I can't get or keep angle, but almost every tuning option can help me with that. Where do I start?

A: Springs > Anti-Roll Bars > Tire Pressure > Alignment > Damping > Differential -- This is the order in which you should change things. A big mistake that a lot of people make is messing with the alignment first in order fix oversteer/understeer. This is not the case, the default alignment settings I provided work perfectly for almost every build.

These are the biggest questions I get when people ask about tuning. As more & more people reply to this thread, I will steadily add more questions to this list so you all can reference them easier.

Credit

A lot of the explanations I've given in this post are inspired by or are direct quotes from the 2 following guides, in order of how much I referenced them.

http://forums.forzamotorsport.net/turn10_postst10610_Tuning-Guide-for-Drifting.aspx

http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/modp-1201-basic-drift-chassis-setup/

^{Anyone who read this whole thing, I really really appreciate you. :)}