For any large project, I really love having this 8 foot metal ruler. Not sure how I survived without it for years. Shown with some synthetic insulation for my new, 3rd myog quilt.

I really use it for drawing straight lines, though, and not measuring.

While I was in Innsbruck I saw a ton of simple fold top bags throughout the city and I wanted to try my hand at making one. This is by far the simplest bag design I've ever made nuts basically just a sack with a boxed bottom and straps. I'm a fan.

I made a mistake and put the shoulder straps a bit too far apart. That's my main complaint with the design so far.

All of the fabric is scraps from quantum sails.

I found myself needing a better carry-on size backpack, and my choices boiled down to the TRVL32L by Prickly Gorse and the TSA2 from Stichback. I already made one from Stichback, so I knew their pattern was good, but I chose Prickly Gorse as it would better fit my needs. And oh boy was I not disappointed! This pattern (and I am sure all others by Prickly Gorse) was so detailed and so well explained that I was never lost (well sometimes but because of my own stupidity). I love the attention to detail in the instructions and the level of customization available. Of course, any MOYG is customizable by nature, but having instructions that propose some modifications and tell you when to add them is so valuable when making the pattern for the first time.
Overall, than you Prickly Gorse for this amazing pattern. Highly recommended!

All hardware is from Ripstop By The Roll (except for the webbing) as well as the spacer mesh and the foam. I don't have much technical details about the fabrics.

Hello. I am needing to replace the zipper slider on a winter moto jacket. It is not a waterproof type zipper, and to my research seems to be a “separating” type zipper. The teeth and stops are plastic. My old zipper slider broke in half after years of use and I can not find it. I’m struggling to get the exact type I would need. The zipper measures out to 7mm when the teeth are interlocked, so that means I need a #7 zipper slider, right? And when replacing this type of slider, do I have to replace any other parts? I see “stops” or “stoppers” mentioned in zipper repair, but I am unsure if I need them as the top and bottom parts of this zipper are plastic and appear molded around the edge of the jacket. Any help is appreciated.

got the fabric on sale so it was a pretty cheap project

About two months ago, I started my first MYOG project: a Prickly Gorse 40L framed pack. I had some scrap 2.18oz Dyneema SB34 (not DCF) lying around from work and decided to put it to good use. This material is typically used for making bulletproof vests.

The template and tutorial from Prickly Gorse were absolutely amazing, guiding me through every step. The materials were laser cut on a 100W CO2 laser and stitched together using a Juki industrial machine. The A0 templates were the perfect size for the laser, and the Lighburn software was able to open up the pdf file directly, making this super easy.

I made the frame from a corrugated plastic sheet, and sewed in a pair of carbon fiber arrow shafts for stiffness.

The final weight came out to about 860g (30.3oz).

Unfortunately, while packing for my first trip, the seams tore due to delamination (last photo), even though they were reinforced with double-sided tape and seam-seal tape, along with a top stitch, they didn't hold up as expected.

In addition, the nylon webbing I got from Strapworks was unfortunately too thick for the buckles, making adjusting difficult.

I've since ordered some X-Pac VX21 from Ripstop By The Roll, along with their 5038 webbing and proper PET seam seal tape for my next attempt, and will be continuing to experiment with the Dyneema SB34 using flat-felled seams to see if that provides enough strength.

I'm still learning about sewing, modifying patterns, and material science, so any recommendations or advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

This is a Prickly Gorse Summit 15 pattern, printed at 64%. I made it as a late gift for a friends 2 year old.

The pack is made out of 600d coated polyester, back panel is cushioned with 3d mesh and 2mm EVA foam. Shoulder straps are a layer of fabric and double layer of 3d mesh. Linning is cotton.

Paw patrol patch adds cool factor, kitty lining adds cuteness and reflective piping safety. And I made it extra personalized by stitching her name into the back panel.

Loking at this tiny thing I gotta say this has been one the most satisfying builds I've ever done.

I’ve got a project I’m working on for my company, and been looking to get 4” #5 molded tooth YKK one way separating zippers. I can’t seem to find anywhere to buy custom length zippers other than Zippersource.com but based off their prices and what I’ve read from others I’m not too keen on doing that.

Does anyone know where I can get custom length YKK zippers in black, tan, and ranger green?

I used lambskin for the exterior and canvas for the interior. All machine stitched. I made the pattern by looking at pics of a similar bag online

I fully trashed my Simond rucksack on a climbing trip to Wadi Rum in November. I've patched it multiple times before but the fabric was tearing at the seams this time. It's a lovely light weight sack that I've used on tonnes of multipitch routes. Simond don't make exactly the same sack anymore so I decided to seam rip it and try and recreate over the Christmas holidays. About 8hrs of work on Christmas eve, 6 on boxing day and 3 today. A lot of this was seem ripping and figuring out the construction. This is my first attempt at a rucksack, and my second MYOG project.I head out for a Tafaroute climbing trip in 2 days so will test then and hope my sewing skills are up to scratch.

What You’ll Learn: • The tools and wax needed for this process • How to prepare your tincloth pants before waxing • The step-by-step process for applying wax evenly • Tips for achieving a smooth, weatherproof finish

I have a pair of camo waterproof hunting pants which don't fit me anymore. They've got full length zippers down the legs and some reinforcement fabric on the butt, knees, and inner ankles.

The waterproofing tape inside is delaminating a bit, but they're in otherwise good condition.

I have a sewing machine and some experience, but I am not on the level of most people on this sub.

Any thoughts on how I can repurpose the pants, or anything I can make from the fabric? I was thinking about maybe a small bag of some kind.

So I have a number 5 zipper pull and slider and I've managed to get the zipper on, and it zips and unzips the slide, but it's incredibly stiff to the point I wouldn't want to sew it onto the bag I'm making and it makes me think I've just forced it on or something. I'm wondering if the zipper pull I bought isn't compatible with the molded plastic zipper slide. However, the zipper pulls product page doesn't seem to indicate what type of slide it's for. What am I missing here? I've linked the slide and pull below. I would appreciate any help.

The zipper pull:
https://www.wawak.ca/zippers/parts-accessories/zipper-sliders/5-metallic-nylon-solid-long-zipper-pulls/#sku=mfs5sl3ab

The slider:
https://www.wawak.ca/zippers/specialty/continuous/ykk-5-molded-plastic-continuous-zipper-roll/#sku=rmz51bk

I am trying to make a custom ground cloth for a small pop-up tent. I purchased a tarp from Amazon and marked it to cut to fit, but before I cut it I am trying to figure out the best way to bond the material together.
The plan is to cut it, then fold over the edge about an inch while enclosing a length a paracord to give a reinforced hem that I can use to anchor it at the same points as the tent.

Has anyone done any sewing with fabrics from Teijin? It seems like Octa is somewhat common (though I haven't used it yet), but I haven't heard of anyone using any of their other fabrics. Info on the website is somewhat vague, but maybe there is some potential?

If anyone has seen any of their fabrics I'd love to hear your report. Cheers!

Link: https://thinkecofabrics.com/

Greetings! I have an old lunch bag with "good bones" -- it has a solid structure, and I like the shape and colors -- but the interior plastic liner is coming apart. So I'm looking to redo the liner, and while I'm at it, possibly redo the insulation as well.

I would be grateful for advice/recommendations on the following:

1. A lunch-bag-appropriate liner that will last decades without degrading/deteriorating.
2. Recommendations on insulation, whether to stick with the existing 2mm foam(?) panels, or switch to (or add) something else. I've seen mention of Insul-Bright, but then also have read comments that reflective insulation doesn't do much without an effective air gap (and I tend to pack stuff tightly into this lunch bag). I have repeatedly seen comments that closed-cell foam insulation is best (though I don't know enough to recognize whether what I already have is that or something else), so suggestions for particular sources/brands would be great (I am in the US). In terms of thickness, I think 2-4mm is what I can do (>=6mm will start to crowd the interior space). As a bonus, if a recommended insulation also is useful for shock absorption that would be nifty for a totally separate project (of adding a shock absorbing panel for a tablet bag), since I might have to buy more insulation than I need for just the lunch bag.

Thanks in advance for any assistance! :)

I bought both the digital and physical pattern of the alpha raglan hoodie, but I didn't end up needing the physical pattern. I figured maybe I could help someone out by reselling it to someone that wants to make their own hoodie.

Here's the link to the pattern on their website: https://ripstopbytheroll.com/products/alpha-raglan-hoodie-pattern-learnmyog

Here's the youtube video that led to me making my own: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqttEZROb_4&ab_channel=LearnMYOG

I also purchased several materials that I didn't end up needing. I included the store-bought price of the items, but I really just want enough money to feel like I'm getting a value for my time and materials that I'm passing along. I just want someone to benefit from a homemaking hoodie pattern like I did.

All you need in addition to the materials I include is your own alpha direct material (the fabric options for that are mentioned in the first link I included above. I paid $50 for the fabric ($25/yd, and you need two yards for a single hoodie) for the hoodie. I went with this 4004 alpha direct fabric, in case you're curious, which is the lightest weight and the one that was more recommended by people whose advice I followed. But I used all of the material I bought, so you'll have to buy that material yourself. I'm including the link to make it easier to get everything you need to buy: https://ripstopbytheroll.com/products/polartec-alpha-direct-4004

I have for whoever wants to buy it:
1. Pattern ($20+S&H on website)

And here's the other materials I'm giving you that I ended up not using.

1. Micro Cordlock (black), a dozen, still in the package ($4 on website): https://ripstopbytheroll.com/products/micro-cordlock

2. 1/8" elastic shock cord ($4 on website) https://ripstopbytheroll.com/products/shock-cord

These two above items are for making a cord to cinch your hoodie around your head. I ended up going with the other hoodie style that didn't use shock cord, so I still have the full length of it, 25 ft. Plenty for making multiple hoodies.

1. And I also have the foldover elastic material that you need for the cuffs of the wrists and waist of the hoodie. They're in 5/8" width camo style. I ended up deciding that my sewing machine (I don't have a surger) would make this thinner 5/8" width more difficult to work with, and I went to a fabric store and got 1" width instead. So you can have the full length of this: https://discoveryfabrics.com/products/fold-over-elastic-foe

I paid $35 for this stuff with shipping, but you can just have it for $15, just tell me where to send it. I have it packaged and ready to send..

I also have a yard of this lightweight base layer material if anyone wants to make theirself their own base layer: https://discoveryfabrics.com/products/power-dry-lightweight

If you want this material, you can just have it for another $10, even though it's $21 on the website.

Hipless like palantepacks