r/Angola • u/FreeSpirit-94 • Nov 29 '24
Backpacking Angola for 2 weeks - itinerary feedback and other questions
Hello all! I hope you are well. I (30M, american but look pakistani) will be backpacking Angola for around 2 weeks. I don't really have an end date but I am giving myself 12-13 days before going to the next country. As such, I am sharing my itinerary for your feedback and to see if I should add or subtract anything from the list. I am quite flexible in what I want to do. Of course lots of nature, but also want to enjoy the cultural aspects and 'way of local life' when I backpack. FYI it is looking too expensive for me to get a rental car, so I will be relying mostly on the public transport/buses and hitchhiking. If any other travellers, or locals, want to join, feel free. I do plan to be 'budget friendly', so lots of couchsurfing (where available) or sleeping in the campsites/budget hotels.
Tentative route:
- land on 21 or 22 of Dec in Luanda. stay one or two nights depending on what time I land
- Take trip day to Miradouro da Lua and back to Luanda
- Take a public transport to Kalandula Falls and stay overnight probably
- Hitchhike to Pedras Negras de Pungo Andongo and hitchhike back to Luanda
- Take a bus or flight to Lobito and also explore Benguela
- Kumbira Forest?
- Take a bus or flight to Moçâmedes.
- Take day trips to Fenda da Tundavala and Namibe Reserve (not necessarily within the same day)
- Tchitundo-hulo?
- Head back to Luanda by flight or buses
- Take trip to M'banza-Kongo
Now I don't have any dates or anything because I just don't know the timeline since I won't have my own car and will be relying on public transport and hitchhiking. In addition, this itinerary is very nature heavy and I don't have a lot of 'cultural' or 'local cities' to experience their way of life in there, so open to suggestions.
As for other random questions, I saw the 'best' network provider is Unitel? I was wondering if Visa credit cards are widely accepted at places (gas stations, accommodations like campsites, entrance fees for parks, restaurants) or do I have to carry cash? More importantly, is malaria something I have to worry/be very cautious about?
Cheers!
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u/GlendoraBug 29d ago
I see a lot of people talk about using credit cards. I don’t want you to get your hopes up. Almost no places accept credit cards. The some of the fancy restaurants and hotels do, but not even all of those do. Your best bet is assume you won’t have any access to credit cards and have enough cash.
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u/RuyB Nov 29 '24
A couple of notes:
- Yes, Kalandula will most probably require an overnight stay somewhere. Perhaps one option is to make base in Malanje and organize a day trip there. In theory you can reach Malanje by train from Luanda? Not sure how those connections work today.
- To Mbanza Kongo the bus will probably take around 8 hours, IIRC. I think there is a Macon connection, otherwise you would have to look for the 'candongueiros' (8 seaters, now just called taxis).
- AFAIK there are no flights to Lobito, only Benguela.
- Going from Luanda to Moçâmedes by bus (Macon) will take up to 48 hours, realistically.
- Tundavala and Namibe Reserve cannot be done in a single day, they are different roads with poor connection between each other.
- Not sure what part are you thinking of and what you are looking for in Namibe Reserve? IIRC, to Tchitundo-hulo you would have to go through Virei, and last time I checked the road was pretty tough. The Arcos area further south, closer to Tombwa, is also really interesting.
- I've never been there, but the Flamingo lodge south of Moçâmedes is quite popular.
Other issues:
- Unitel has better coverage, all in all. But given your itinerary you will travel areas that don't have any coverage whatsoever.
- Malaria is a bigger issue during rainy season. Many non-Angolans take antimalarials (Mefloquine, Malaron) but in the long run this impacts the liver (and also mood swings in some cases). One option is to bring anti-mosquito prevention (spray, roll-on) and work with that.
- Visa will be easier to use in Luanda, but will be a bigger problem in your backpacking tour outside urban areas. I would recommend collect as much cash as possible.
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u/FreeSpirit-94 Nov 29 '24
Cheers, I really appreciate the thoughtful and in depth reply. Noted on all points. Really good to know about the possibility of a train and of using Malanje as the base.
as for the Namibe Reserve, any suggestions on what exactly to do/go there? I had read about it but not anything specifically.
for the archeological site near Tombwa, can you specify the location? I couldn't find it.
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u/RuyB Nov 29 '24
In the Namibe reserve apart from the Tchitundo-Hulo what you'll find is transhumant communities (Herero, Nyaneka-Humbi), geological formations and a lot of Welwistchia Mirabilis plants :-). The issue for me is where to stay and how to circulate there. Some roads need 4x4 cars or perhaps hiring a "kupapata" (motorcycle driver). The main village there would be Virei, but as far as I recall it doesn't have places to stay (unless granted by the local administration). I don't know about 'informal' camping, if that is accepted or not.
Further south you have the Iona National Park (currently managed by the African Parks corp.), which is a reserve harking back several decades and I believe it does have some infrastructure in terms of lodging and circulation. Also with the sand dunes meeting the sea, etc. But it takes about 6 hours by car from Moçâmedes.
The Arcos area is not archaeological, but it is pretty cool because it is an oasis in the middle of the desert (link to Google Maps).
BTW there is also a train line connecting Moçâmedes with Lubango and further East (Menongue). Though I'm not sure how it is working nowadays.
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u/FreeSpirit-94 Nov 29 '24
Thanks for the reply. Yea for me, since I will be relying on public transport or hitchhiking I am also a bit puzzled now for how to get around the Reserve and where to stay. Plus it will be probably around 35-40 degrees so I now think maybe it may not be meant for me to visit.
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u/FreeSpirit-94 26d ago
Hey question if you don't mind - how do I get from Luanda to Lusaka (or anywhere in Zambia for that matter? I did not see any flights from taag? Would I just have to fly back to Johannesburg?
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u/RuyB 25d ago
AFAIK yes, the only current options would be through SA (Joburg) or Ethiopia (Addis). I thought perhaps there could be a connection via Windhoek or Kinshasa, but there doesn't seem to be any.
I guess you could also connect via train, using the Lobito/Benguela line to DRC and then from there connect to Zambia, but it must be quite an adventure to get there, probably lasting days.
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u/Spicy_food Nov 29 '24
Kalandula falls has accomodation. Multiple tiers. From cheap to more costly. Transportation is the only issue. There is a lodge right in from of the falls by you may need to take a 30 min detour.
The town of kalandula is 10 mins from the actual falls.
If it is a public transport then taking a Macon bus to Malanje and then arrange transportation by taxi to Kalandula would be the easier way.
Miradouro da Lua is fairly simple to get to. A personal taxi would be your best solution but I believe going a bit further to Barra do Kwanza for an overnight is worth it.
Benguela is okay to be in if you go to Restinga in Lobito. If you choose to stay in Benguela make sure to stay at CV lodge. It is a wonderful place.
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u/FreeSpirit-94 Nov 29 '24
Thank you very much for your tips, especially for the tips of overnight stays. Do you know if the trains are working? I see many train stations on google maps but i cannot find the website for it.
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u/GhostTurdz 29d ago
Don’t try to use the trains - the only viable ones are Rovost (I think that’s how it’s spelled) Rail and it’s a luxury liner that stops in Lobito. Pleases check in with the US Embassy when you arrive. If you don’t speak Portuguese you’re going to have a difficult time, everywhere honestly (including in Luanda), but especially outside of Luanda.
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u/GhostTurdz 29d ago
Hitchhiking is not a thing here. If you get a ride you will be expected to pay. Do you speak Portuguese? You’re better off hiring someone to drive you. Most of your plan seems sketchy and ill advised.
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u/sask_crusader 29d ago
Going from Luanda to Moçâmedes, or really anywhere in the south, I'd fly, you are going to lose a lot of time just sitting on the bus. Taag must be subsidised by the government because flights are pretty damn cheap when I flew. Can be a pain to purchase them through their website, or online, I didn't find many online sites support Taag. Best to just to go an office when you get there or a travel agency in Luanda. Bring lots of cash, exchange it in Luanda before you go to the countryside, Luanda exchange rate was much different compared to what I got in Lubango. Malaria is very much a thing, even in the big cities, during all seasons.
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u/FreeSpirit-94 29d ago
Thank you very much for all those tips! I will definitely fly as much as I can then, especially to further out destinations. As for the exchange rate, was it better in Luanda or lubango? And noted about malaria.
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u/sask_crusader 28d ago
I never exchanged in Lubango, but did in Moçâmedes, the only way it seemed I could exchange was to find a bank willing to exchange, and the rate was not favorable at all. Then again, I'm also a poor negotiator.
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u/libertysince05 Nov 29 '24
Visa credit cards are no widely accepted to pay for things, but you will be able to take cash out of most ATMs.
Always have cash on you.
You're visiting during rainy season, flooding is common as are the flare up of mosquitoes, so besides insect repellent be sure to have a Deet treated sleeping net, specially if you plan to camp.
Get familiar with the symptoms of malaria, dengue fever, Chikungunya and sleep, trypanosomiasis (sleep sickness) as these are present.
Another thing you're visiting during the Christmas holidays, accomodation costs may rise.